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Week 11 [18.01-24.01] The savage mountain. K2.

 
K2, Czogori (Chinese simplif. 乔戈里 ; Chinese. Trad. 喬戈里 p; pinyin Qiáogēlǐ Fēng; 8,611 m above sea level) - eight-thousander, the highest peak of the Karakoram, the second highest peak on Earth. It is located on the border between China and Pakistan.

https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/K2#/media/Plik:K2,_Mount_Godwin_Austen,_Chogori,_Savage_Mountain.jpg

January 16 will go down in history of world Himalayan mountaineering. On that day, at 5 p.m. local time, K2 the second highest mountain in the world, the only one not yet climbed in the winter season, was defeated. This was done by 10 Nepalese Sherpas who earn their living working for foreign teams during their expeditions to this majestic and most dangerous mountain. Usually, they are not people who climb for sport, but who help the railing, that is, they lay ropes and other facilities for climbers who plan to reach the peaks of the highest mountains. 

https://theconversation.com/on-everest-climbers-pay-to-take-risks-while-sherpas-take-risks-to-get-paid-25951

Everyone would like to get K2 in winter. Many world-renowned climbers have traveled to the Baltoro Glacier year after year in order to do something that has never been done before. But this year it has changed.

 

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-01-17/sherpas-become-first-to-complete-winter-summit-of-k2/13065144

Nirmal Purja, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Sona Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Kili Pemba Sherpa and Dawa Tenjing Sherpa are the names of 10 Nepalese people who go down in history as the first people who has done something others have tried to do for many years. They summit K2 in the winter season. This is the greatest tribute they could pay to their countrymen, who for decades have been helping foreign climbers from around the world to reach the highest peaks, but they themselves fade away in the glow of their principals. A few days ago they reached K2, the most dangerous mountain in the world, where every 4’th climber dies. They go down in history as the conquerors of the last unconquered eight-thousander on earth. Moreover, they all went in together. The group always separates when it comes to the summit attack, everyone chooses their own pace and goes on their own. Above 8,000 meters, the organizm begins to die. Literally. This zone is called the "Death Zones" because, due to the fact that the atmospheric pressure and the amount of oxygen are too low, it just slowly begins to suffocate. Therefore, you should climb to the summit and leave it as soon as possible. Nepalese showed unprecedented class and that they are a team. The group that was walking faster stopped about 20 meters before the summit and waited for the rest of the team so that everyone could get to the top at the same time. They did this singing the Nepalese anthem. After a successful summit attack, they managed to descend to the safer camp 3, below the death zones, where they waited out the night before going back to base camp the next day.


1. What do you think of Himalayan mountaineering. Do you think that climbing in such hard conditions makes any sense?

2. Have you heard about polish expeditions when they wanted to summit K2 in winter? Do you know any polish Himalayan mountaineers?

3. Hypothetically, if you would to reach the peak of the K2 with the snap of your fingers, would you do it to see the world from this height? Why?


Biblio:

https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/K2

 

Comments

1. What do you think of Himalayan mountaineering. Do you think that climbing in such hard conditions makes any sense?
I think it's the ultimate test of someone's will, strength, and the ability to endure probably the harshest environment on Earth. And so, it does make a lot of sense. People have the natural need of achieving something, be it a high position in their work, wealth, large and happy family, diving to the deepest parts of the ocean, or reaching the highest mountain.

2. Have you heard about polish expeditions when they wanted to summit K2 in winter? Do you know any polish Himalayan mountaineers?
I haven't heard about them, but I've heard that the majority of mountaineers reaching Mount Everest during winter are of Polish nationality. To be honest, I'm not all that interested in the topic, so I can't name any names.

3. Hypothetically, if you would reach the peak of the K2 with the snap of your fingers, would you do it to see the world from this height? Why?
Haha, if it was that easy, I think it would be as popular as going for a walk in the Warsaw Old Town during Christmas Holiday. Of course I'd go there to enjoy the view!
Saloni Nayi said…
1)There, the weather changes so frequently that even experienced climbers are sometimes surprised. This season, heavy snowfall over the peak has increased the chances of avalanches this year, making it even more difficult to make an ascent. Mountaineering varies from most adventure activities in that the area of play and just about all the obstacles for the athlete are created by nature alone. Climbing mountains embodies the thrills created in a situation of inherent danger by measuring one's bravery, resourcefulness, cunning, strength, ability, and stamina to the fullest.

2) No, I haven't heard about it. Also I don't know about any polish Himalayan mountain.

3)Actually, it's not that easy to reach there, but because it's hypothetical, it would be great if I touched the top of the mountain.
Olga Przytula said…
1. Well, I’m so glad you chose this topic, as it is something I’m very much interested in! Because of that I think it is a fascinating yet surely dangerous sport. I am aware of the fact, that lots of people think, that this discipline is stupid, and if someone decides to cultivate it – its their fault if they die. However, I don’t think I can agree with that. Somehow in my opinion it is a sport as every other, these people are driven by the same values, same goals, just in much more dangerous circumstances.

I have read many, many books written by or written about polish Himalayan climbers and I guess that is the reason I can understand why they are doing what they are doing.

Personally, I would never decide to check my strengths on Broad Peak or K2, but these are the mountains, that require special set of skills. From my brothers experience I know that it is very possible to climb Kilimanjaro mountain and I think in a few years it can be my goal.

2. Yes, of course. There was a time when I read about every single expedition in “Polski Himalaizm Zimowy”. Now I don’t have that much time. However, it is impressive that ten out of fourteen “winter” peaks were conquered by our compatriots. Polish Himalayan mountaineers I know? Well, how much time do you have to read about them all? :D I have no idea how the situation looks like nowadays, as from Polish climbers in general most commonly known are Adam Bielecki and Artur Małek. But from the older generation I can name for example: Artur Hajzer (former owner of HiMoutain and Alpinus, amazing organizer of expeditions, unfortunately died few days after 2013 Broad Peak, he thought his friend fell down with an avalanche, probably panicked he would be lynched after returning to Poland for having two unsuccessful and tragic expeditions in one year, tripped on the snow and fell down into an ice gap) or Wojciech Kurtyka (he’s very unique an interesting person. He has his own philosophy of the mountain and treats climbing more like an art or a way to meditate, rather than a sport. If you haven’t seen any interview with him – I highly recommend! Though he seems a bit egocentric). There are also Andrzej Zawada, Krzysztof Wielicki, Maciej Berbeka (I absolutely love this guy, when I read his biography I was truly sad he died, seemed like an amazing person), Jerzy Kukuczka, Wanda Rutkiewicz, and maaany, many more, but I don’t want to bore you. If you are interested in this topic I can recommend you all the books from publishing house Agora. Well, maybe apart from Reinhold Messner. He sounds like a total egocentric

3. Oh yes, of course I would! I always felt very connected with nature, mountains especially. I think it would be an amazing feeling. So pure and freeing.

1.What do you think of Himalayan mountaineering. Do you think that climbing in such hard conditions makes any sense?
In my opinion, the whole Himalayan mountaineering does not make sense. I don't understand the idea of climbing to such places. It does not understand the point or the value that reaching a given summit is supposed to bring. I am laughing at these quarrels about whether the K2 entrance was with additional oxygen or not? Who cares? For my part, I am very happy that all these high mountains have already been conquered, because the Polish government will not organize any national expeditions (for public money) for a group of arrogant people who cannot cooperate. Personally, I like being in the mountains, I like skiing - it's nice, comfortable, pretty cool. I like to drink coffee in the mountains, a beer and enjoy life.

2. Have you heard about polish expeditions when they wanted to summit K2 in winter? Do you know any polish Himalayan mountaineers?
That's how I heard that the Poles were planning to climb K2. However, it no longer makes sense. Of course they can go and go in there, but I have a great request that they do it with their own money. Sure, I know Polish mountaineers - Wanda Rutkiewicz, Adam Bielecki, Denis Urubko, Tomasz Markiewicz.

3. Hypothetically, if you would to reach the peak of the K2 with the snap of your fingers, would you do it to see the world from this height? Why?
Honestly, I wouldn't. I do not like heavy frost and extreme conditions in which life is threatening (the so-called zero zone). In addition, I do not know if at such an altitude, with such a small amount of oxygen, I would be even aware of where I am. I definitely prefer lower mountains - alps and tatras.
Mateusz Szych said…
1. In my opinion, this is art for the sake of art. I understand that some people like to be more demanding and want to break records, but in my opinion the risk of dying is too high.
2. I don't like mountains and I'm not interested in any feats like this one, so I haven't heard about Polish feats and mountaineers either.
3. In my opinion, this is stupid, fingers play an important role in climbing, and I would like to survive and keep my body fully functional.

1. What do you think of Himalayan mountaineering. Do you think that climbing in such hard conditions makes any sense?

It makes sense obviously! In my opinion it's faux pas to write that after their all tough experiences! It's some type of combat with yourself and the participants tried to reach and defeat their own weakness. I read a book where a woman reached one of the highest peak on the world, and she wrote that when you achieve such a high level of effort, when your body says 'please stop, I can't', the only possibility to move further is your brain. So it depends on human and their power but in my mind it's something amazing that people are ability to beat their own barriers.

2. Have you heard about polish expeditions when they wanted to summit K2 in winter? Do you know any polish Himalayan mountaineers?

I've heard about this story, but I don't know any details.

3. Hypothetically, if you would to reach the peak of the K2 with the snap of your fingers, would you do it to see the world from this height? Why?

If I could reach the peak of the K2 I would do that to see this amazing view which is not possible to everyone and to feel almost like a God.
olga jaroń said…
1. What do you think of Himalayan mountaineering. Do you think that climbing in such hard conditions makes any sense?
I admire Himalayan mountaineers for their strength and will to pursue goals in tough conditions, but I don't see much sense in what they are doing. Why are they climbing in such hard conditions? Just for the thrill and to prove that they can? I can't imagine going through such an exhausting trip for such feeble goals. Moreover the number of people who failed and died while mountaineering is horrifying- it only proves that there are places that people shouldn't try to reach.

2. Have you heard about polish expeditions when they wanted to summit K2 in winter? Do you know any polish Himalayan mountaineers?
I haven't really heard about polish expeditions when they wanted to summit K2 in winter. I only know about one polish Himalayan accomplishment- Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy were the first people who reached the top of Mount Everest in winter

3. Hypothetically, if you would to reach the peak of the K2 with the snap of your fingers, would you do it to see the world from this height? Why?
If getting to the peak of K2 didn't involve climbing I would love to see the world from its height. I'm sure that the view would be breathtaking (not only because of lack of oxygen on this height).
1. Many people accuse mountaineers that their deliberate climbing in unfavorable conditions is unnecessary. I completely understand the idea of ​​pushing the limits of human endurance also in terms of weather and seasonal conditions. The number of such high and difficult to climb mountains is very limited. Current weather conditions are a variable and unpredictable factor. I'll compare it to my sport. In downhill cycling, the routes often change their characteristics a lot when it rains and the ground is muddy. The time of the ride is then incomparable to normal conditions, and the situation requires different skills from the competitor. It's just a different category then.

2. From time to time, information about Polish expeditions appears in the media, but to be honest I have never followed this news. However, it is always good to hear about the achievements of our country in the international media.

3. I remember my trip to Mount Fuji in Japan. It was a long and hard hike, but our guide praised the views from the top. At the end of the tour, a fog appeared that smoothly turned into clouds. When we got to the top, the distance at which anything could be seen did not exceed 50m.
Back to the question. Yes, I'd love to teleport there for a while, but i would check the weather first.
Viktor Ryś said…
1.
Yes, I treat it as an extreme sport and a sign that impossible or very hard things are actually possible. It's a huge motivation for the rest of us and definitely is a sport I admire.


2.
I known that a lot of Eight-thousander peaks (including Mt. Everst) had their first time winter climbs done by a Polish expedition. I've hard about Krzysztof Wielicki, Leszek Cichy, Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka.


3.
Definitely, If I was reach enough to rent a helicopter to the top of K2 I would do it.
The view from there must be quite breathtaking, like visiting a different planet.
1. I believe that mountain climbing is a great activity. Personally, I would never try this type of entertainment, but if someone wants to risk his life, let them do it.

2. It can be said that Poles are the precursors of this sport. Wielicki, Cichy, Kukuczka, Czok, Rutkiewicz and many others. Personally, I have a couple of Polish books on mountaineering and the achievements of these people and their teams are impressive.

3. Yes - it would be a great pleasure to see the world from this height, but on the condition that with the snap of my finger I would be at the bottom again. Apart from the fact that the horizon is probably not so well visible due to the mountainous surroundings and quite unfavorable weather conditions. Maybe if K2 was located in the middle of the Masovian voivodeship it would be even more interesting.
1. What do you think of Himalayan mountaineering. Do you think that climbing in such hard conditions makes any sense?
I think it is hard to answer to the second part of your question. Does running for ball makes any sense? People wants to break their limits. If they had been able to climb these mountains in the summer why do they should try to make it harder and do it in winter. I think it is really dangerous and they have to be really brave. I admire them. I was taking part in the meeting with some polish Himalayan mountaineers and we were talking about drones which are they using and how they use them. They are amazing people with passion, I support them really hard.

2. Have you heard about polish expeditions when they wanted to summit K2 in winter? Do you know any polish Himalayan mountaineers?
Yes, I have heard about few of them. As I said in the first question I have met few of thems in person. I ding heard about this expeditions this year, but I have heard about last ones. It is really good to read and I like articles with them. One day I would like to try it, maybe something easier for the beginning but later who knows. It has to be fun.

3. Hypothetically, if you would to reach the peak of the K2 with the snap of your fingers, would you do it to see the world from this height? Why?
Definitively yes, I would like to see world from this height. In my opinion it would be hard for me to achieve it, but I would love to. I like activities like this, less popular more satisfied. I will enjoy the view and smile with my friends. I imagine it has to be breathtaking experience.
1. What do you think of Himalayan mountaineering. Do you think that climbing in such hard conditions makes any sense?
Yes it makes. Some people love mountains and it is like challenge for them every time to reach the higher peak. I have friends who love mountains and spend there a lot of time up to two weeks. For me it is crazy and very dangerous.

2. Have you heard about polish expeditions when they wanted to summit K2 in winter? Do you know any polish Himalayan mountaineers?
No I have never heard about polish expeditions

3. Hypothetically, if you would to reach the peak of the K2 with the snap of your fingers, would you do it to see the world from this height? Why?
As I said I think it is very dangerous, but I would try it. I think life and my mind can change after reaching the peak.
Jakub Dzień said…
1.What do you think of Himalayan mountaineering. Do you think that climbing in such hard conditions makes any sense?

I admire these people for their passion and courage. It takes years of dedication and preparation to have this power. For these people, it definitely makes sense. They set the bar higher and higher by the way, risking their lives, but that's their choice.

2.Have you heard about polish expeditions when they wanted to summit K2 in winter? Do you know any polish Himalayan mountaineers?

Yes, I did, but I don't remember the details anymore. Unfortunately not.

3.Hypothetically, if you would to reach the peak of the K2 with the snap of your fingers, would you do it to see the world from this height? Why?

Yes! It seems quite abstract to me, but I just want to see the world from this perspective.
Kacper N said…
I think that is a sport dedicated to a brave people. Climbing in such a hard conditions, risking even your life is very dangerous and risky. Of course it makes sense, there are some people which have specified goals, and physical predispositions, so they are able to make it. Calling that type of activity pointless is inappropriate. We should appreciate that people hobbys.

I have heard about some expeditions to K2, but unfortunately not polish ones. I have heard about Denis Urubko and his expedition.

Answering your last question - no, I think that would be too risky.
1. What do you think of Himalayan mountaineering. Do you think that climbing in such hard conditions makes any sense?
It depends on your point of view. Theoretically, climbing there is pointless because we risk our lives, spend a lot of energy, and as a result we do not get a physical reward. It's all about human ambitions and the will to prove to yourself and to the world that anything is possible. It is very important. If everything didn't make sense, we wouldn't have had great discoveries. No one would invent printing or light bulbs. Then it seemed unnecessary, and yet it revolutionized the world. We have to believe and overcome our weaknesses.

2. Have you heard about polish expeditions when they wanted to summit K2 in winter? Do you know any polish Himalayan mountaineers?
I don't know any climbers by name, but I used to follow some of the climbs. Unfortunately, they often end in fatal accidents, so I really respect these people for their courage.

3. Hypothetically, if you would to reach the peak of the K2 with the snap of your fingers, would you do it to see the world from this height? Why?
Who wouldn't? :) It must be an amazing sight, in a place where only a select few have access. It's like a dream come true and an event that is remembered throughout life. I like mountains very much and I do not exclude that in the future I will climb the highest peaks.
@Daniel Trzaskoma
1. George Mallory, british mountaineer, asked why he wants to reach the peak of Mount Everest answered simply: "Because it is there". I think there is no better way to describe the will of some people to be there and try to reach the limits of human body. They just want to achive something that they feel is right. And im also understand your concerns about polish expeditions beeing supported by the government.
2. As Adam Bielecki said on his twitter K2 still is unreached in winter without oxygen. So the next expedition probably is preparing for the next season or so. I dont know how much money exactly polish expeditions are getting from the government so its hard for me to judge. I think that they should get some financial backup.
3. That sounds reasonble.

@Kacper N
1. I think about it in simmilar way. Even thought me myself wouldnt go there to reach 8 thousanders i admire people who are able to do this.
2. As far as i know Denis Urubko try to reach K2 in winter twice with polish team in the last two years. Last year he leave polish expedition due to different opinions and try to reach the peak by himself.
3. But the view ;)

@Zhypargul Maraeva
1. Its glad to hear that some people understands those freaks who try to reach the most deadliest places on earth.
2. Then you should get to know about it. Polish climbers are in worlds top of himalayan climbers.
3. That would be a lifetime experience. I would love to see the view from up there.
1. I think that it is very difficult sport that is not for everyone, I have recently heard that there are big problems with it (pollution and rubbish after climbing that will not decompose because it is too cold, or frozen dead bodies on the road), solution could be to increase cost license.
2. I have not heard about Polish expedition to k2, but I have heard about one climber - Tomasz Mackiewicz, who died on route. A few years ago it was loud in social media
3. I think it would not give me any satisfaction, in addition, body could have problems with such rapid temperature change. Instead, I would rather climb some high peak on my own (less than 8000 meters of course). Or, alternatively, see such views from an airplane or helicopter flying over Himalayas
1. What do you think of Himalayan mountaineering. Do you think that climbing in such hard conditions makes any sense?

I think everything makes sense if it makes someone happy and don't hurt anyone. If someone is willing to risk his own life to achieve his dream and fulfill his pation than it is completely fine. Especially if family agrees.

2. Have you heard about polish expeditions when they wanted to summit K2 in winter? Do you know any polish Himalayan mountaineers?

Yes I have heard about them. I know Kukuczka, Bielecki and many more. I know that polish mountaineering is one of the most famous ones in the world and that polish mountaineers have many big achievments. I also know some crazy ones like Adam Bargiel who is a mountaineer but also loves skiing and he skiis from the top of the mountain that he achieves f.e. he did that on K2.

3. Hypothetically, if you would to reach the peak of the K2 with the snap of your fingers, would you do it to see the world from this height? Why?

I would for suer if I would be able to survive. It has to amazing feeling and only a few people in the world get to achieve and feel it. It has to truly maginficent out there.
1.
Well, as with many different things, the point of extreme mountaineering is the mountaineering itself and perhaps the sense of achievement when you succeed. It is a testiment of human strength both in terms of body and mind and also it's one of those things left in the world that only a few people can say they've done (and survived!).

2.
I know you're mentioning this fact because just one week earlier the K2 was summited in winter for the first time in history :) If i recall correctly in 2017/18 polish expedition reached 7600m on the mountain before needing to return due to bad weather, but unfortunately it still was 1 kilometer from the peak. In terms of himalayan mountaneering we, as Poles, can be certainly proud. Out of first winter summits for all of 14 mountains more than 8000m high ten of them were Polish expeditions! I'm don't have expert knowledge in the subject, but I know the two greatest Polish himalayist, Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki. In terms of K2 the first of them was able to set his own path and summit the infamous mountain, a path which to this day was never successfully repeated.

3. Of course! I don't see why would anyone not want to see that view (maybe except for frostbite and fear of the heights). It must certainly be breathtaking and would make you become a member of a very elite group.
Tkach Dmytro said…
Himalayan mountains looks beautiful, honesty all mountains looks beautiful, it’s kind of magic in this world. I tried climbing in summertime a few times and I didn’t think about comfort at all, it isn’t the kind of place where you thinking about a sofa or coffee from the coffee machine 😊
I would like to try climbing in winter, but I prefer to start from Ukrainian mountains 😊
I don’t hear anything about polish expeditions, for now, I’m not the kind of fan who will watch and read about winter expeditions, I think about myself mostly in way of junior in this topic and want to dream of.
I don’t think so, I wouldn’t do think kind of that, I want to stay with my fingers, they will bring se some money coz I’m programmer, so I need them :D

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