The fragrance industry has recently experienced a rising trend of chemistry-centric perfumes.
In the fragrance context, the word "molecule" first appeared due to Geza Schön and his brand, Escentric Molecules, which in 2006 has launched an entirely new concept in perfumery - the first ever molecule fragrance collection.
Geza Schön - Escentric Molecures creator, source
What are molecules?
Let’s start with atoms. - Atoms are the smallest pieces of matter. They are the building blocks of everything surrounding us, including ourselves.
Several atoms connected to each other into a single structure are called a molecule.
Molecules are not the only form of matter organization - different substances are composed differently. For example, the atoms in salt do not have covalent bonds between them, thus they are not having any molecules.
The molecular fragrances term stands for abstract fragrance compositions of a primarily synthetic nature, that are not trying to emulate any well-known natural scents.
Escentric Molecules
Each of the fragrances in the collection is built around a synthetic component, resulting in harmonious and "natural" compositions, that are bottled into lab flasks complete with printed non-existent structural formulas, using various science stories to promote them.
Technically, "molecular" fragrances are no different from any other perfumes, however the colognes smell different on every wearer - there’s no way of knowing how you’ll smell until you spritz yourself with the perfume. They blend with the wearer’s pheromones and create unique smells.
The fragrances are presented in binary pairs, and each pair allows its wearer to explore one aroma-molecule in two different ways.
The Molecule fragrance conatins no odorants except the aroma-molecule.
The Escentric fragrance highlights the unique character of the aroma-molecule with ingredients that enhance its key features.
01. Iso E Super
Iso E Super is a molecule that lingers close to the skin to create an aura round the wearer. It is characterised by cedar wood note with a velvety sensation. The creator Geza Schön describes its allure as comforting and cocooning. Iso E Super does not exist in nature - it was created in a laboratory at IFF in 1973.
02. Ambroxan
It is a crystal with a chemical structure identical to the ambrox derived from ambergris. Ambergris was always considered the most prized ingredient in perfumery, however it is rarely found these days. The modern ‘‘amber’ is a lab-created equivalent of some of the aroma-molecules that make up its scent. It was first isolated from plant sources in 1950. 03. Vetiveryl Acetate Vetiveryl Acetate is a hybrid molecule - half-natural, half-synthetic. It is a fraction of vetiver oil, which is then combined with acetic acid to remove the bitter and leathery aspects of the vetiver root. The result is a refined molecule with the woody, grassy character of vetiver, but much smoother and softer.04. Javanol
Javanol is a sandalwood-type molecule that retains its gleam and endurance of real sandalwood. Escentric 04 formula highlights the grapefruit accent in the molecule. The result is a fresh interpretation of a sandalwood, fizzing with bitter top notes of grapefruit peel lime zest. Javanol does not exist in nature. It was created in a laboratory at Givaudan in 1996.05. Cashmeran
Cashmeran is warm and woody with a pine note. It has an unusually complex character - it combines a cocooning, softness with aromatic woodiness and a sweet pine note. It was created in a laboratory at IFF in the late 1970s.
There is no doubt Escentric Molecules created iconic fragrances to be enjoyed by all, also those with no chemistry degree.
Questions: 1. Do you have any fond memories related to a specific smell/fragrance? What is it? 2. How many fragrances do you own? None, one signature scent or a collection of scents for various occasions/seasons?
Sources:
https://row.escentric.com/
https://goodhoodstore.com/blogs/features/a-simple-guide-to-escentric-molecules
Comments
1. I don't have a specific fragrance o smell that I can give a name to from the top of the head. It's quite hard to describe but for me, it likes an in-a-moment thing. I'll feel the sent and it will immediately remind me of places or memories. But when I don't feel it I can't really think of any. Well, or maybe like the smell of cotton candy will always remind me of amusement parks and childhood.
2. I prefer to use one perfume at a time and I might be still on the search for The One as I'm yet to repeat a perfume. But it might change in the nearest future as I do actually want to build a small collection of perfumes. But the ones that do really call my name, if I might say so😅 I would love to step back a bit from the "mass market" perfumes and explore more of niche perfumes as I find them to be more complex, interesting, and unique.
Yes, I have some fond memories related to a specific smell and fragrance. The first one is the smell of leaf green tea and pancakes, which associates with my grandparents, who live far away in Saint Petersburg. I have spent all summer holidays there and have a lot of warm memories. I visited them in 2019 last time, and unfortunately due to pandemic, I can not go there now.
Also, there are some related to the holidays. For example, the smell of the Christmas tree and cinnamon, pumpkin and apple pie...
2. How many fragrances do you own? None, one signature scent or a collection of scents for various occasions/seasons?
Now I have two fragrances, one of them is 30 ml, and another is the miniature. The first one is Dolce&Gabbana - Light Blue, lively, pleasantly fresh. I use it as an everyday fragrance. The second fragrance is much sweeter and stronger. I use it for some specific events.
I also have some strange preferences. I like the fragrance of Channel #5, but not on me. Every time I visit a perfume store, I spray this scent on a piece of paper and take it with me. 😅
1. I don't have a specific fragrance o smell that I can give a name to from the top of the head. It's quite hard to describe but for me, it likes an in-a-moment thing. I'll feel the sent and it will immediately remind me of places or memories. But when I don't feel it I can't really think of any. Well, or maybe like the smell of cotton candy will always remind me of amusement parks and childhood.
2. I prefer to use one perfume at a time and I might be still on the search for The One as I'm yet to repeat a perfume. But it might change in the nearest future as I do actually want to build a small collection of perfumes. But the ones that do really call my name, if I might say so😅 I would love to step back a bit from the "mass market" perfumes and explore more of niche perfumes as I find them to be more complex, interesting, and unique.
I agree, Chanel No. 5 is definitely not for everyone. It's super classy and elegant, but I don't think I will ever come to love it. It's a huge piece of perfumery history which I really appreciate, but I just can't stand this smell. I guess I might be too young or not mature enough to wear it.
1. That depends what you mean by 'fond memory'. Of course when its' the smell of someone else's perfumes you'll obviously associate it with them and time spent together. Thusly, there are many fragrances of my family members or significant others that bring a smile to my face by reminding me of several warm memories. Apart from that, there are smells not connected to any specific memory but rather.. let's call it circumstances. For me those are the smells like freshly cut grass, just brewed green tea etc. They are not referring to any specific point in time where I, for example, drank tea, but that in general, those scents indicate something nice or enjoyable.
2.Usually I don't use more than one perfume on a daily basis, you could call it my 'signature scent'. I might have more than one vial of perfumes at home at any given point in time, but I rarely use the others. When I find a new scent that is enjoyable enough for me or if I grow tired of the old perfumes, I get new ones and the old one takes up a place on a shelf for an unspecified period of time.
1. When it comes to fond memories related to a specific fragrance, I don't think I have. Anyway, somehow I don't get attached to smells by memory.
2. I have a lot of perfume fragrances. Each is for different occasions and depending on the season - a light summer perfume, a bit stronger for winter. Elegant for more serious events and for casual - "sports" fragrances.
I've recently purchased a discovery kit of this collection and I hope to test it during christmas break, as it's taking forever to arrive.. I have really high hopes. I've heard that Molecule 01 is great to layer with other fragrances, because it's so mild that it can be used as a sort of background for other notes. I'm super excited to try it with other perfumes I own and see how they turn out.
I'm really jealous of people who are totally fine with owning only one fragrance at a time. My nose gets used to them way too fast, that's why I cannot imagine wearing the same one for two or more days in a row. That is also making it much harder to finish the bottle, which is why my collection is continuously growing.....aaaaaaand it's also making me go bankrupt. So good for those with their signature scents :D
I also don't associate any specific smells with situations. Rather with some periods in my life, in which I was using a particular fragrance. And that unfortunately makes some scents unbearable to smell, as they might bring back some memories I wish I didn't have
I don't remember that. However I can say I love the smell of wet asphalt, earth and wood. I really like the smell of the forest, you feel it once you approach it.
Especially here in Warsaw there are a lot of forests and a walking in the morning or evening in such cold weather is the best time here.
I also really like the smell of the mountains, especially in winter.
I think these smells remind me my childhood.
2. How many fragrances do you own? None, one signature scent or a collection of scents for various occasions/seasons?
To be honest I am not a fan of perfumes, it is actually very difficult for me to find a scent for myself because I am sensitive to smells and I am sick of certain scents. Especially when I am traveling in transport and I feel someone's perfume and the smell of engine oil (transport) and all smells are mixed it is very, very unpleasant.
In fact, the mask helps.
I agree, Chanel No. 5 is definitely not for everyone. It's super classy and elegant, but I don't think I will ever come to love it. It's a huge piece of perfumery history which I really appreciate, but I just can't stand this smell. I guess I might be too young or not mature enough to wear it.
I feel like the smell is one of the senses that has the biggest effect on our imagination and memory. I definitely have some memories that are brought back when I sniff a particular smell. This summer, my family and I have found day old kittens, that were left behind. We waited, but their mother was not coming back, which often happens in the wild, as the mather moves the kittens from one place to the other. As it was in the countryside and not in the city, the wasn't an option of calling an animal rescue group, so we've decided to take them to a vet that's half an hour drive from our home. We were determined to help them, because flies had already started laying eggs near them, so it was now or never if we were to save them. The only chance in keeping them alive, that the doctors have presented, was taking them with us and nursing until they reach 4 weeks old. So we took them home and I personally was responsible for feeding and cleaning them every two hours, even at night. Sadly, regardless of our efforts, they passed away after one day, due to the injuries that they encountered while being alone outside before we rescued them. Even though it was only one day that I've spent with them, I was devasted and in despair. After saying our goodbyes at the vet, I couldn't stop smelling their blanket, their smell was the only thing that would calm me down a little. Even though many weeks have passed since then, I can still remember their smell and it breaks my heart every time. This is one of the most impactful memories that I have. Of course, there were many others, more positive than this one, such as a smell of gingerbread in the winter season or freshly cut lavender at the end of the summer.
Answering your last question, I have a few perfumes, but I use them only on occasions like going on a date, or to an opera. I like the scent of sandalwood and pine. For everyday use, I prefer the mixture of scents from the products that I use, such as body lotion, hair serum, and laundry detergent. Rather than perfumes, I enjoy using scented candles at home. My favourite would be Sweet Nothings by Yankee Candle, and its also in my favourite colour. For summer nights at our house in Masuria, we have our special called Lake Sunset by the same brand.
1. Do you have any fond memories related to a specific smell/fragrance? What is it?
I'm heavily allergic to Alternaria, an easily spread fungus between mid-spring and late summer. It drastically declines my smelling sensors and it wouldn't be a euphemism if I would say I don't smell anything in those months. Therefore, I become extremely sensitive to any smell in spring and I love it, all of them. The smell of the dry leaves, coffees, concrete, wet concrete, or even just the smell of the polluted city.
Usually, Fall also means for me using scented candles. My favourite family of scents would be something very sweet and intense. Vanilla cupcakes are my favorite :)
Regardings perfumes, I don't have any vivid memory of any perfume, maybe my first love perfumes, I think I would recognize them everywhere. Other than that, I usually can't recognize a specific model of the perfume, everything blends too much into my semi-active nose during the year.
2. How many fragrances do you own? None, one signature scent or a collection of scents for various occasions/seasons?
I've never paid much/any attention to it, so the answer is none. My introverted lifestyle limits real-world interaction to a minimum and I just find owning a real perfume too expensive for me.
2.As for all my fragrances, I have their entire collection. I am a person who loves perfumes or even car scent. My perfume collection consists of 11 different fragrances, ranging from expensive to cheap. It doesn't matter if they are expensive or cheap, I just have to like them. Rather, I do not have a favorite fragrance for a given occasion or season. I think this collection will grow soon, because on the occasion of Christmas, I have the opportunity to go shopping and discover new fragrances that attract me like a magnet.