Week 1 (09-15.03) Surfing – sport or way of life?

Everybody knows what surfing is about. It is about feeling the rush of adrenaline while riding the waves, not seldom in places where your life is at risk due to many threats e.g. sharks (like being alone inside the wave on a wobbly board is not dangerous enough :D).

For centuries, surfing (on wooden planks) was a main part of ancient Polynesian cultures. Nowadays it has many different subdivisions, so everyone can find something that will suit his/her needs. Like for example…

long boarding (with long surfboard)

short boarding (with short surfboard)

stand up paddle surfing (you can surf with a paddle too)

body boarding (riding on a short, rectangular piece of hydrodynamic foam called bodyboard – good for tricks)

bodysurfing (no unnecessary devices)

kite surfing (surfing + flying a kite)

wind surfing (surfing + sailing)

wakesurfing (surfing on the wake of a boat)

tow-in surfing (surfing attached to a water scooter…

...or a helicopter, because why not?)

The list is quite long but for sure the modern-day definition of surfing refers to a surfer riding a wave standing up on a surfboard. We can observe it in many tourist destinations and you can usually take surfing classes there too. Surfing is not only the domain of super fit youth in Hawaii, it is enjoyed a year round by both men and women of all ages in many different parts of the world. I had a chance to observe groups of 12-year-old boys and girls going together to have fun on the waves in the Canary Islands, without any adults around to keep an eye on them. In these places it is really as popular as e.g. skateboarding in Europe.

If riding waves is for you too casual, you can try and learn some tricks and there is a very large number of them to choose from. Is it safe? Not very much. Here’s some statistics: Common surfing injuries requiring treatment are lacerations, sprains, dislocations and fractures. The legs (37%) and head (35%) are most common areas of injury. The torso (16%) and arms (12%) account for the rest of injuries. The coral seabed doubles the risk of injury compared to the sandy seabed. Experienced surfers tend to have more severe injuries than novices because they surf larger waves in more challenging conditions.

Of course, you can surf on natural or artificial waves, e.g. those from boat wakes and the waves created in artificial wave pools.

Some people practice surfing as a recreational activity while others make it the central focus of their lives. Many surfers claim to have a spiritual connection with the ocean. Surfers from around the world use often the “shaka sign” to convey the Hawaiian "Aloha Spirit", a concept of friendship, understanding, compassion, and solidarity among the various ethnic cultures that reside within Hawaii. On the island even drivers will often use it on the road to communicate… distant greetings and gratitude (positive attitude, how awesome is that).

The Shaka sign looks like this:

Fun facts. When the waves were flat, surfers persevered with sidewalk surfing, which is now called skateboarding. Sidewalk surfing has a similar feel to surfing and requires only a paved road or sidewalk. To create the feel of the wave, surfers even sneak into empty backyard swimming pools to ride in, known as pool skating. Eventually, surfing made its way to the slopes with the invention of the snurfer, later credited as the first snowboard. Many other board sports have been invented over the years, but all can trace their heritage back to surfing.

What do you think about surfing?

Have you ever tried it? Do you want to try it in the future?

Do you know anyone who practises this sport?