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Week 11 [09.01-15.01] Vegan Leather


Did you know that:
1. Every year around a billion animals are allocated for leather accessories production.
2. Most of the skins are imported from China and India, where there are no Humane Slaughter Acts.
3. In india, cows are forced to march for days with no end, without water, they are beaten and pushed. Red and green chili peppers are being inserted into the eyes of bulls that are loaded on trucks for transport. The peppers are meant to sting the eyes so badly that they are unable to lie down and rest.
4. Supposedly, sometimes cat and dog skin is mixed with other products on purpose.
5. In order to prepare leather for manufacturing, it’s treated with different kinds of extremely poisonous chemicals, including formaldehydes, that pose threat to the natural environment.
6. 20 to 50 percent of dye-works workers have increased risk of cancer.

Leather for clothing and accessories is most commonly skinned from animals, such as cows, pigs, goats, sheep, alligators, snakes, kangaroos, cats or dogs. However, there might be an alternative, more specifically - 'vegan leather'.
Piñatex™ is a material made out of pineapple leaves fibers. This material was developed by Dr Carmen Hijosa after seven years of research in the Philippines. Piñatex harnesses advanced technologies to create a totally sustainable high performance natural textile.
Pineapple fibers, required for the production of piñatex are waste byproducts of pineapple harvest, no additional cultivation, water, fertilizer or pesticides are required in order to obtain it.
This could provide new, additional income for farmers, creating a whole new industry in countries that grow pineapples.

SOURCE

Piñatex™ is made from pineapple leaves. The fibres are extracted from the leaves during decortication process, which is done at the plantation by the farmers. Not only that, but the by-product of decortication is bio-mass, which has further uses and can be turned into organic fertilizer or bio-gas.
Farmers could sell both, the extracted fibers and bio-mass for additional revenue, strengthening the farming community. Extraction is followed by an industrial process to obtain a nonwoven textile that makes up the base for Piñatex™. Finally, the material itself is produced at a textile company in Spain, where a unique finishing process is applied before shipping.
Right now this pineapple material is being tested in products by brands such as Puma or Camper.


Yet another alternative comes from MuSkin - 'leather' obtained from mushroom caps, colored without chemical processing and 100% biodegradable. This breathing, naturally water resistant material is supposedly nicer to touch than suede. It’s made from the Phellinus ellipsoideus, a big parasitic fungus that grows in subtropical forests and feeds on their trees.

SOURCE

MYX is also worth mentioning - it’s a material obtained from mushroom mycelium and plant fibre, it was invented by a Danish designer Jonas Edvard. The mycelium grows over the fibre and molds it into a soft, living textile. After two weeks of growing a healthy Oyster mushroom can be harvested and the waste byproduct is dried and used as a recyclable, sustainable, organic and lightweight material.

SOURCE

Finally there’s teather - leather made out of tea. Young-A Lee together with a team of fashion designers created a prototype woven from cellulose fibre. They made shoes and a vest out of byproducts of kombucha tea brewing. All it took was a bacteria colony and yeast to create a material that can be later harvested and dried. Unfortunately this product is not yet perfect as it loses its durability in moist environment and becomes brittle in low temperatures. Researchers are still evaluating its usefulness.
Every year designers are looking for new, interesting materials, more natural and ecologic. Maybe those materials are not yet fit for mass production, but they are a sign of good, more humane solutions.
What do you think about those materials? Would you give pineapple shoes a chance?

Sources:

Comments

Unknown said…
I have heard about it before, because I found "vegan shoes" on one website, so I asked my vegetarian/vegan friend about it, and she, of course, knew about it :)
If I found nice one - shoes, bag, etc, with good price (not highier than for regular leather), then why not? But I would read something more, probably opinions of customers, if it is good quality and will last for some time in good condition.
Piotr Basiński said…
What do you think about those materials?

I think that this is a good alternative to animal skin. First is organic. We care about the environment. It is fully biodegradable. Clothing and other accessories look the same as the animal skin.
Would you give pineapple shoes a chance?
Yes, I would give chance pineapple shoes because it is normal shoes.
Is no different from ordinary shoes.
Unknown said…
Thanks for your comment, I feel the same about quality, I would like to buy something made of vegan "leather" to see if it's just as durable as regular one.

I think those Puma shoes look just as good as those made from regular materials.
Unknown said…
Too bad those shoes are still in prototype phase, because I see people would actually buy them. I'm glad to see you like the idea.
Unknown said…
I think there's no point in not using leather when an animal is killed for food (I don't support vegetarianism) or dies from natural reasons. But I generally agree that if there are good replacement materials killing animals only for leather is wrong. Hopefully in the future we will be able to grow both meat and leather independetly, more like plants (with genetic modifications).
Dajana Kubica said…
I advocate buying artificial fur and skin, therefore the materials presented can be a great alternative to clothing made of genuine leather. I have to buy shoes made by Puma from pineapple and test their strength. I wonder why people just do not peacefully kill a cow in India. I thought I regard them as sacred animals.
Ihor Ahnianikov said…
Killing for leather sounds really bad in 21th century, using good replacements would be a huge improvement. It's not only about leather, believe it or not - there's still a market for commodities like ivory - a huge awesome creature like an elephant can be killed just for it's bones used in production of some luxury trash. And it's impossible to prevent this by forbidding - then the black market will appear, it's about changing minds.
Unknown said…
The advantage with faux leather is you can usually put it in the washing machine. With real leather, you have to send it to the dry cleaner's. I really like both, and if you get high quality faux leather, it's more difficult to tell the difference between real and fake.
Unknown said…
Extremaly interesting article!
I had no idea the situation with leather industry is so bad. What an idea to put chilli peppers into bull's eyes...
I was always wondering what they use to colour the leather, now I know it's formaldehyde. Despite it's being a poison in normal conditions, I wouldn't say, it's definately a bad thing. It's used as a disinfectant also, applied to chemical fibres and industrial resin manufacturing and added to food as a preservative (E240).

This Piñatex thing looks pretty nice, I love this pale yellow colour. I'd like to give it a try, so I hope the tests would be positive and mass production would start in nearest future. I only have mixed feeling about it's endurance, would it outlive natural leather or even equal it...? Secondly would it be so unrivalled and usefull for warm winter shoes as the leather is?

I have to admit I buy products from natural leather, that's because of their endurance, great comfort, beautiful and exclusive look. However, I'm aware of it's usage of poor animals, that's why I do have pangs of conscience, but there haven't been the good substitut yet. The bombastic "eco leather" has nothing to do, not only with leather, but also eco and it has really poor resistance.
I do have some really old leather wallet (it's some strange dark and pale brown leather, we don't have such in Europe) bought in Turkey or Egypt about 15 years ago and it's still the best one I have, it's not worn-out at all.
As for the MuSkin leather and teather - I'm not convinced. The second one isn't just some kind of paper..? MYX sounds like an interesting solution in my opinion. I'm looking forward for some news how it's going.
Unknown said…
It's a great oppourtunity for peopel who don't tolerate violence and killing animals for their skin.
Of course that I would like to try those pineapple shoes, it sounds interesting.
Unknown said…
Really interesting topic! Much of imitation leather is of poor quality but the ones presented in the article look good. I think it could be great alternative to animal leather. Of course, I don't support killing animals for leather but even if we buy products from eco leather despite this animals will still be killed for food. I'm interested in this pineapple material. If the shoes of such material wouldn't be expensive for sure I would have bought them to test.
Unknown said…
Nowadays there is many different trends based on Ecco and aware living, which relates to what we eat, the way we spend time, the way we can contribute to saving the environment (including in our households - diminishing electricity usage etc), where we buy our products (what kind of brands and CSR we support in businesses we choose) and also, what kind of clothes we wear (whether the brand has produced it in aware and conscious way). More and more people realize that how we live matters and how each and single person decides everyday whether he or she wants to live the way that the environment, the animals or other people don't get hurt.
This is why we can read about the idea of a vegan leather, which in my opinion, is just another step or drop in the ocean of off the grid ideas how to avoid animal cruelty and do not match fashion and self confidence by wearing something fancy with the death of innocent lives. I think that all kinds of ideas which come from a need (not a whim) are the best, so if some people became vegan to feel happier and be healthier and also there is an ideology behind such choice, then vegan leather can be as successful idea as the vegan diet.
I think that vegan leather can actually become an attractive alternative for many people, who do not want the animals to be a part of the fashion industry, which can have a positive influence on the whole situation.
OlaScislewska said…
Good to Know That we have an alternative. Im sure reflective, intelligent people would chose That Piñatex or MYX leather but still there are people who'll allways choose luxury even at the cost of someone else.
Leather or Fur are a perfect example of the power of money. This primitive process of sourcing materials from being alive could be banned long time ago but too many people would loose Their earnings.
That's really good idea to promote alternative leather, as it is more known as much people will choose that.
Unknown said…
Personally I don’t support killing animals for their skins. It’s inhuman and brutal occurrence. I'm very glad that people start thinking about replacement natural leather by organic ones. In my opinion pineapple shoes and clothes is brilliant invention. I would give them chances regardless of their price! I'm curious about the strength of these products, do you have any information about it?
Bartosz Łyżwa said…
Materials that you described in article are very good substitute. There is one problem. Common leather is cheaper than those substitutes. There are still many companies that are not able to produce eco materials so it'll be long term initiative, but nobody said it's impossible. It's awful how animals are treated right now.
I really hate the idea of killing animals only for their leather or fur. I can understand it when it’s connected to killing livestock for meat and using all parts of animal such as leather or fur, but killing only for leather is for me unacceptable.
I think that it’s really great that some companies try to substitute leather with other plant based leather like materials, but to be honest I’m afraid that won’t work very well.
Faux leather and fur are available on the market from decades ago, but some people just want to have REAL thing.
It’s for them some kind of social status booster, they can show how much money they have and that they live in luxury.
Shoes presented in the video for me are a bit ugly, but that's the design. I don't really care what material is used as long as I like the style. So if there were any shoes that had any on these materials and the price was reasonable I wouldn't mind buying them.
Unknown said…
The article is very interesting. It's a great thing that people find the ways to replace animal skin. I am trying to buy shoes and bags, made of Eco-leather. Of course it is not so natural, but the quality is fine.
I guess I would wear the vegan leather goods, because it is good for health and makes no harm to animals.
Unknown said…
I too buy leather products, especially shoes because there are no good alternatives yet and eco-leather is not as durable and comfortable as regular leather. They wear off faster and are not bio-degradable (made mostly from polyester).
I think the vegan leather would reach the same level of quality as regular one if the clothing industry was more interested in it. Sadly, as long as the consumer awarenes stays low and products like Pinatex are not in high demand, they have little interest in developing good alternatives to animal skin.

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